Resources for Journalists, Policy Makers, Brands, Researchers and Human Rights Activists
Cotton Campaign Press Releases
The press releases issued prior to 2021 are available at https://www.cottoncampaign.org/resources-uzbekistan and https://www.cottoncampaign.org/resources-turkmenistan
Uzbekistan
Turkmenistan
Forced Labor
According to the ILO Forced Labor Convention, 1930 (No. 29), forced or compulsory labor is “all work or service which is exacted from any person under the threat of a penalty and for which the person has not offered himself or herself voluntarily.” We refer to “state-imposed forced labor” when forced labor forms part of a state policy and is widespread or systemic.
This section provides an overview of the ILO instruments addressing forced labor as well as existing and proposed mechanisms to eliminate forced labor cotton from global supply chains.
In contexts of state-imposed forced labor in cotton production, such as in Turkmenistan, companies cannot prevent or remediate forced labor. To ensure their global supply chains are free of forced labor Turkmen cotton, companies must map their supply chains to the raw material level and exclude products tainted with forced labor.
Governments must adopt and robustly enforce import control measures against forced labor products. To effectively address the state-imposed forced labor system in the harvest of Turkmen cotton, these control mechanisms should allow for a regional scope that ensures all goods, made wholly or partially with Turkmen cotton are banned.
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Coalition Website: End Uyghur Forced Labor
Global Estimates of Modern Slavery: Forced Labour and Forced Marriage (ILO, Walk Free and the International Organization for Migration, 2022)
Report: Laundering Cotton: How Xinjiang Cotton is Obscured in International Supply Chains by Laura T. Murphy et al. (2021)
Study: Freedom Collaborative: Leading brands could be unknowingly using cotton produced with forced labour (2021)
Fact Sheet: ILO Clear Cotton: Global Estimates of Child Labour and Forced Labour (2018)
Guide: Mini Action Guide: Forced Labour by ITUC CSI IGB (2008)
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Forced Labor Instrument at EU Level: Progressing the proposed EU Regulation on prohibiting products made with forced labour: A Model Law by Anti-Slavery International, the European Center for Constitutional Human Rights (ECCHR) and the Greens/EFA Group in the European Parliament (November 2022)
Forced Labor Instrument at EU Level: Civil Society Statement on the Proposed Regulation on Prohibiting Products Made With Forced Labour on the Union Market (October 2022)
Cotton Campaign submission to the U.S. Trade Representative: On the Development of a Trade Strategy to Combat Forced Labor (August 2022)
Cotton Campaign submission to the EU Commission: How a Ban on Forced Labour Products could Ensure that Goods Made with Forced Labour Cotton from Turkmenistan are No Longer Sold Across the EU (June 2022)
Turkmenistan overview: Forced Labor Import Bans as a Tool to End State-imposed Forced Labor
Cotton Campaign letter: to the European Commission Calling for an Import Ban Against Forced Labor Turkmen Cotton (December 2021)
NGO Position paper: Anti-Slavery International and European Center for Constitutional and Human Rights’ position on import controls to address forced labour in supply chains (June 2021)
NGO Position paper: Key considerations for an EU instrument to control the importation of forced labour products into the EU (July 2021)
Article: ‘Towards an EU import ban on forced labour: new study’ by Anna Cavazzini (February 2021)
Mandatory Human Rights Due Diligence
A growing worldwide movement is working to develop and expand legally binding instruments to make the promise of decent work and responsible business conduct a reality.
The United Nations Guiding Principles (UNGPs) and the OECD Guidelines for Multinational Enterprises require companies to carry out ‘human rights due diligence’ in their supply chains: a process to identify and assess actual or potential adverse human rights impacts; take measures to cease, prevent or mitigate these impacts, track and monitor the implementation and effectiveness of these measures, and communicate with stakeholders on these actions and their outcomes.
Momentum to translate these business and human rights principles into hard law is building around the world, with mandatory human rights due diligence (mHRDD) and corporate accountability laws already in force in some jurisdictions and political processes and civil society actions ongoing at national and regional levels.
This section offers a snapshot into recent and ongoing developments in mHRDD, with insights from a range of experts and civil society groups on what it will take for human rights due diligence legislation and multi-stakeholder initiatives to deliver decent and dignified work.
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Briefing paper: Setting the record straight--Downstream due diligence by SOMO, Swedwatch, ECCHR, ECCJ, and OECD Watch (December 2022)
Briefing: A piece, not a proxy by SOMO (November 2022)
Briefing: Respecting rights or ticking boxes? Legislating human rights due diligence by Clean Clothes Campaign, ECCHR, Public Eye and SOMO (January 2022)
Report: Hearing the human: Ensuring due diligence legislation effectively amplifies the voices of those affected by irresponsible business by Business & Human Rights Resource Center (BHRRC) (October 2021)
Report: Forced Labour Evidence Brief: Due Diligence and Transparency Legislation by G. LeBaron et al. (April 2021)
Report: Evidence for mandatory human rights and environmental due diligence legislation by European Coalition for Corporate Justice (ECCJ) (January 2021)
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Report: Anti-Slavery International analysis of the European Commission proposal for a Directive on corporate sustainability due diligence (May 2022)
Website: Business & Human Rights Resource Center (BHRRC) Mandatory Human Rights and the European Commission
Report: ‘Model EU law on corporate accountability in global value chains’ by European Coalition for Corporate Justice (ECCJ) (January 2022)
Website: Business & Human Rights Resource Center Mandatory Human Rights Due Diligence in France
Website: Business & Human Rights Resource Center Mandatory Human Rights Due Diligence in Germany
Website: Business & Human Rights Resource Center Mandatory Human Rights Due Diligence in The Netherlands
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Ensuring Decent Work in the Cotton Supply Chains
The International Labour Organization (ILO) defines decent work as “productive work for women and men in conditions of freedom, equity and human dignity.” A job is considered decent when workers are paid a fair wage, treated equally, can freely associate, bargain collectively, and work under safe working conditions with a secure form of employment and adequate social protection.
As Uzbekistan seeks to establish itself in the global market, international brands, local suppliers, and labor groups have the unique chance to work together to set and maintain international standards at all stages of the Uzbek cotton and textile industry.
The selected resources in this section provide an overview of the international labor standards relevant to the cotton industry and showcase best practices to safeguard workers’ rights and ensure compliance with mandatory human rights due diligence and other supply chain obligations, for example through Enforceable Brand Agreements (EBAs). These practices form the foundation of the Cotton Campaign Framework for Responsible Sourcing from Uzbekistan.
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Website: Asia Floor Wage Alliance: Living Wage versus Minimum Wage
Report: Forced Labour Evidence Brief, Labour Share and Value Distribution by Re:StructureLab (December 2021)
Article: The ineffectiveness of CSR: understanding garment company commitments to living wages in global supply chains by G.LeBaron, R.Edwards, T.Hunt, C. Sempéré and P.Kyritsis (May 2021)
Article: Wages: An overlooked dimension of business and human rights in global supply chains by G. Lebaron (January 2021)
Article: Corporate commitments to living wages in the garment industry by R.Edwards, T.Hunt and G.LeBaron (May 2019)
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Report: Forced Labour Evidence Brief: Commercial Contracts and Sourcing by G.LeBaron et al. (July 2021)
Report: Confronting root causes: forced labour in global supply chains by G. LeBaron et al. (March 2019)
Article: Predatory purchasing practices in global apparel supply chains and the employment relations squeeze in the Indian garment export industry by M.Anner (August 2019)
Article: Squeezing workers’ rights in global supply chains: Purchasing practices in the Bangladesh garment export sector in comparative perspective by M. Anner (June 2019)
Report: Purchasing practices and working conditions in global supply chains: Global Survey results by the ILO (June 2017)
Report: Globalization, the Changed Global Dynamics of the Clothing and Textile Value Chains and the Impact on Sub-Saharan Africa by the United Nations Industrial Development Organization (2009)
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Website: Beyond Social Auditing by the Business & Human Rights Resource Center
Book: Combating modern slavery, why labour governance is failing and what we can do about it by G. LeBaron (August 2020)
Report: Not Fit-for-Purpose, The Grand Experiment of Multi-Stakeholder Initiatives in Corporate Accountability, Human Rights and Global Governance by MSI Integrity (July 2020)
Article: The Factory Oversight Industry Protects Profits, Not People by M. Hengeveld (April 2020)
Report: Fig Leaf for Fashion. How social auditing protects brands and fails workers by Clean Clothes Campaign (September 2019)
Article: Ethical audits and the supply chains of global corporations by G. LeBaron and J. Lister (January 2016)
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Brand Agreement ending forced labor and ensuring ongoing accountability: U.S. Recognizes Labor Agreement in Decision to End Forced Labor Import Ban of Indian Garment Maker Natchi Apparels (September 2022)
New Brand Agreement: Landmark Dindigul Agreement to Eliminate Gender-Based Violence and Harassment at Eastman Exports Natchi Apparels with the Support of Global Allies (April 2022)
Article: Three labour governance mechanisms for addressing decent work deficits in global value chains by M. Anner (April 2021)
Article: A review of the Bangladesh Accord Safety & Health Complaints Mechanism using the UNGPs (November 2020)
Article: Addressing Workers’ Rights Violations in Apparel and Agricultural Supply Chains through Binding, Cost-Sharing Accords by M. Anner (July 2019)
Fact Sheet: Agreements to Combat Gender-based Violence in Lesotho’s Garment Industry by the Worker Rights Consortium
Website: About the Fair Food Program
Fact Sheet: What is Worker Driven Social Responsibility? (July 2017)